Monday, 21 May 2012

Weaving & knitting in Peru


Before traveling into Peru we had a brief interlude in Bolivia. I was in fabric-colour-wool-alpaca-pattern-craft heaven. 

I wanted to take the whole of La Paz with me. OK, maybe not the crazy streets, traffic and fumes. 

Everywhere you looked there were indigenous ladies knitting or crocheting on the street, all without patterns, making the most complicated stuff. But my first experience of weaving was on the island of Taquile in the Peruvian side of Titicaca, the highest lake at altitude about 3900 meters above sea level. The indigenous people of Taquile are some of the finest knitters and weavers that I have ever come across. What surprised me was that the men knitted and the women weaved. But it’s not so surprising when you think that sailors originally knitted to pass the time back in the 18th century in Europe. Perhaps if there is something we should be more surprised with is that knitting nowadays is seen as gendered in the West. But even that has slowly started to change.  



Both men and women learn from a very young age to knit and weave and the hats and belts they wear all symbolize their status in the community, so you know who is married, who is single and who’s an elder. The main square centre sells the crafts of the whole Island; each item has a tag to indicate which family made it so that the money can go directly to the maker once sold. The male elders of the community sell the crafts and they all sit around knitting with the wool in pockets and around their necks, needles clicking away.  
I was left wondering if this was all a show for the tourists, but however much they survive by earning extra money from their craftwork, the quality and intricacies of the work cannot be argued over. I learned this the best way by trying to weave a bit myself. And I just can’t get over that fact that the pattern is in their heads, that they don’t look at anything but their own work as they are making it. And yes, that is an animal horn in my hand, used to keep the tension right as you go. You've got to use what you have, right? 

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